Thursday, October 22, 2009

Plato's Atlantis

 A hypnotizing digital film directed by SHOWstudio's Nick Night in which a naked Raquel Zimmermann lied in the sand surounded by snakes was just the beginning of McQueen's spring 2010.  Two inquisitive robotic cameras went back and forth through the shiny runway while reflecting the image of the audience.  Lady Gaga's Bad Romanced sounded in the back for the first time and then....The McQueen girl. A bird or even a bullfighter in the past, she emerged as a methamorphed lizzard women in reptile patterned short dresses, her legs sunk in shoes that resembled the foot of an aqua monster.  The colors that started all green and brown then became aqua and blue.  The print on the fabric gave the effect as if the dresses were stearing back at you, and the shoes and the hair just finished her mutated reptile look. Plato's Atlantis was McQueens vision of the apocalyptic underwater future ahead of us if the glaciers continue to melt. A truly mesmerizing dystopian bliss.


Saturday, October 17, 2009

tout terriblement

During the summer of 1994 the great Yves Saint Laurent agreed to a documentary. The footage would after become, Yves Saint Laurent: tout terriblement a film by Jérome de Misslz that will be released on DVD next november but that was already at Collete and sold out the same day. Probably the most intimate piece made on the coutourier master, Tout terriblement is an insight to Saint Laurent's world achieved beautifully. Listening to Saint Laurent himself talk about his passion for Marrakesh, Deauville or Proust in black and white footage never seen before, is just sublime! 

I love glory. Glory is a feast and I love the feast of glory. It is lovely, it glitters, it sparkles, it flashes,it strikes, it cares for nothing, it disturbs.  Glory is what I wanted.


Thursday, October 15, 2009

Peter Beard

Peter Beard 

collage of diaries

Mick & Bianca Jagger july 1972

Malgosia Bela & Daria Werbowy

The Peter Beard book is a visual diary of many diaries, more than a book itself. Three cups of tea later I realizad that more than an hour and a half had passed since I opened it and I was no where near bringing myself to close it. In a beautiful introduction Owen Edwards refers to him as an amazing omnivore creature and some of Beard’s personal texts on Africa follow him.  He talks about how he saw the land get stripped from life through the years and how he witnessed the biggest world’s natural park become a tourist filled parking lot.  The rest of the book: his images, his collages, his blood tainted pictures and a side of África that we might only be able to see in pictures these days. Friend to Francis Bacon, Bianca and Mick Jagger, Jackelline Kennedy and Andy Wharhol just to name a few, Beard has been a very influential photographer which I just happen to love because of his very raw eye on photography. His fashion take on photography is as raw aswell. He shot the 2009 pirelli calendar in Africa and it was just amazing to see Lara Stone feeding an elephant in a black seethrough body fitted suit, and Isabelli Fontana looking as if she was beeing atacked by a gigantic bug, or Daria Werbowy hanging from an elephant’s horn while managing to smoke a cigarette. Peter Beard’s work just screams outloud from every page.


Monday, October 12, 2009

J'ai deux amours: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren


The spring 2010 collection the dutch designers presented more than a week ago at paris fashion week was an explotion of tulle, of fantasy and of creativity executed to perfection.  Its not about going to see a show, its about getting the Víktor and Rolf experience.  The shows are always so highly produced, so conceptual, so compelling and in a beautiful way, so dramatic.  They take you to the Viktor & Rolf World,  to the state of mind from which the inspiration  comes from. Their aesthetic has always been so conceptual and the line between fashion and art has never been so blury. In 2007 The Viktor & Rolf girl was some kind of a zombie and the models came out to the runway with gigantic pillows in their heads as if they were sleepwalking. That same year for fall they made her a sinister chic women in a black biker helmut and leather trench coat but before the show had ended she had turned completely pink and had gigantic bows on her. They also took her home and got their inspiration from their dutch heritage, which resulted  not only in high heel wooden clogs but with models walking the runway with enourmous light instalations that looked like they were crawling out of their backs. Their shows are so creative that sometimes there's not even a show! For fall  2009 they did a video installation to present the collection. Shalom Harlow was the only model so it seemed as if she had endless clons. I  have always flirted with Víctor & Rolf but the past october 2 it became serious. I fell in love in that tent in tuileries as roising murphy sang in that pink tulle skirt dress at the back of the runway and  the models walked in those chain saw masacred to perfection tulle couture garments that as Nicole Phelps say, seem to defy gravity.  Viktor & Rolf are in their own words an antidote to reality 


fashion is an antidote to reality